Laundry Room Inspection

Washer supply lines need shut-off valves. Drain standpipe required with proper air gap. Washing machine pan recommended for upper-floor installations.

1. Check shut-off valves — should be quarter-turn ball valves (lever type, not gate valves)

2. Verify hot and cold supply lines are braided stainless steel (not rubber hoses)

3. Check drain standpipe height — 18" to 30" above floor

4. Verify standpipe has P-trap and is properly vented

5. If on upper floor: check for washing machine pan with drain connected

6. Test supply valves — turn off and on to verify they work

7. Check for any signs of past leaks (staining, swelling of floor or baseboard)

- Rubber supply hoses (burst risk — braided stainless required)

- Gate valves that are seized from lack of use

- No washing machine pan on upper floor (flood risk)

- Standpipe too short — overflows during drain cycle

- Missing P-trap or vent on drain

- Supply lines too tight causing kinks behind machine

Dryer must vent to exterior through rigid or semi-rigid metal duct. Maximum 35 feet with deductions for elbows. No screws penetrating into ductwork.

1. Check duct material — must be rigid or semi-rigid metal (no plastic or foil flex duct)

2. Verify duct exits to exterior — check the outside vent cap opens when dryer runs

3. Measure duct run length — maximum 35 feet, minus 5 feet for each 90° elbow

4. Check connections — use foil tape or clamps, NO screws into ductwork (catch lint)

5. Verify duct size — 4" diameter minimum

6. Check vent cap has a back-draft damper and no screen (screens catch lint)

7. Check for lint accumulation at connections

- Plastic flex duct (fire hazard — leading cause of dryer fires)

- Screws penetrating ductwork (catch lint, create fire hazard)

- Duct too long or too many elbows (poor drying, lint buildup)

- Vent cap has a screen (catches lint, blocks airflow)

- Duct crushed behind dryer

- Dryer vented into crawl space, attic, or garage (moisture and fire hazard)

Electric dryer needs dedicated 30-amp 240V circuit. Gas dryer needs 120V outlet. Washer needs dedicated 20-amp circuit. GFCI if within 6 feet of sink.

1. Verify dryer outlet matches dryer plug type (4-prong for new installations)

2. Check that dryer circuit is dedicated 30-amp (electric) or 20-amp (gas)

3. Verify washer has its own dedicated 20-amp circuit

4. Test GFCI protection if outlet is within 6 feet of a sink

5. Check that a 120V outlet exists near the gas dryer for the controls

6. Verify gas shut-off valve is accessible for gas dryer

7. Test all outlets and switches

- 3-prong dryer outlet (should be 4-prong for new work)

- Washer and dryer sharing a circuit

- No GFCI near sink

- Gas shut-off valve not accessible

- Extension cord used for washer (fire hazard)

Laundry room floor should be water-resistant. Floor drain recommended. Flooring should withstand moisture from washer.

1. Check flooring material — should be water-resistant (vinyl, tile, or sealed concrete)

2. Look for a floor drain — recommended but not always required

3. Check floor slope — should slope slightly toward drain or door if no drain

4. Verify washing machine pan is connected to drain (for upper floor)

5. Look for water damage signs on floor and baseboards

6. Check transitions to adjacent rooms

7. Verify baseboards are water-resistant material

- Carpet or laminate in laundry room (water damage risk)

- No floor drain or washing machine pan

- Floor slopes toward wall instead of drain

- Water stains indicating past overflow

- Standard MDF baseboard (swells with moisture)