Kitchen Remodel Inspection

Cabinets must be level, plumb, and securely fastened to wall studs. All doors and drawers should operate smoothly without binding.

1. Check all cabinets are level using a 4-foot level — maximum 1/8" deviation

2. Verify cabinets are securely attached to wall studs (not just drywall anchors) — try to pull away gently

3. Open and close every door — they should swing freely without rubbing or sagging

4. Pull out every drawer — slides should be smooth, drawer should not wobble

5. Check that door alignment is consistent — gaps between doors should be uniform (about 1/8")

6. Verify all hardware (handles, knobs) is firmly attached

7. Inspect filler strips between cabinets and walls — gaps should be caulked or covered

- Cabinets not level causing doors to swing open or closed on their own

- Screws into drywall only (not studs) — cabinets may pull away from wall under load

- Misaligned doors with uneven gaps

- Drawer slides that bind or are too loose

- Missing or loose end panels and fillers

- Crown molding with visible gaps at ceiling

Countertops must be level, properly supported, with tight seams and proper backsplash connection. Sink cutouts should be sealed.

1. Check countertop is level along its length and from front to back

2. Inspect all seams — should be tight (less than 1/16") and color-matched

3. Verify the countertop is firmly attached to base cabinets and does not rock

4. Check the backsplash joint — should be sealed with silicone caulk, no gaps

5. Run your hand along edges — no sharp or rough spots

6. For undermount sinks: check the seal around the cutout, no gaps visible from below

7. Place a glass of water on the surface and check it does not slide (level test)

8. Verify overhang is supported — corbels or brackets needed for overhangs greater than 10"

- Visible seams in high-traffic areas

- Countertop not level — items roll or slide

- Gaps between backsplash and wall

- Undermount sink poorly sealed — water leaks underneath

- Insufficient support for overhangs (especially stone countertops)

- Chips or cracks at sink cutout corners

All supply and drain connections must be leak-free. Shut-off valves must be accessible. Hot water should reach the faucet within reasonable time.

1. Turn on the faucet fully — check water pressure and flow rate

2. Run hot water — should reach the faucet within 30 seconds

3. Check under the sink for leaks while water is running — look at supply lines, P-trap, and disposal connections

4. Test shut-off valves under the sink — they should turn easily and stop water completely

5. Run the garbage disposal if installed — should operate without excessive vibration or leaks

6. Check dishwasher connection — run a short cycle and inspect for leaks at supply and drain

7. Verify the air gap or high loop on the dishwasher drain line

8. Check for proper slope on drain lines (1/4" per foot minimum)

- Slow leaks at supply line connections (hand-tight fittings)

- P-trap connections not properly tightened

- Missing or non-functional shut-off valves

- Dishwasher drain without air gap or high loop (risk of backflow)

- Garbage disposal not properly secured (wobbles)

- Cross-connection between hot and cold lines

Kitchen requires minimum two 20-amp small-appliance circuits. GFCI protection required for all countertop outlets. Outlets required every 4 feet along countertop and within 2 feet of sink.

1. Count countertop outlets — should be no more than 4 feet apart (48"), and at least one within 2 feet of the sink

2. Test every outlet with a GFCI tester — all countertop outlets must have GFCI protection

3. Check that the refrigerator has its own dedicated circuit (check breaker panel)

4. Verify the dishwasher and garbage disposal have dedicated circuits

5. Test light switches — all should operate correctly, under-cabinet lights should work

6. Check that no outlet is installed face-up on the countertop (water hazard)

7. Verify range/oven has proper outlet or hardwired connection (240V for electric)

- Missing GFCI protection on countertop outlets

- Insufficient number of outlets along countertop

- Refrigerator sharing a circuit with other appliances (trips breaker)

- No dedicated circuit for dishwasher

- Under-cabinet lighting not connected to switch

- Missing outlet for range hood/microwave

Range hoods should exhaust to the exterior. Minimum 100 CFM for standard hoods. Ductwork must be smooth metal (not flex) and properly sealed.

1. Turn on the range hood at all speeds — verify it actually exhausts air (hold tissue near the hood)

2. Go outside and verify the vent cap opens when the hood runs

3. Check that the ductwork is smooth metal, not corrugated flex (visible in attic or above cabinets)

4. Verify the duct run is as short and straight as possible — each elbow reduces efficiency

5. Check for a backdraft damper at the wall or roof cap

6. Verify hood height above cooktop: 24-30" for electric, 24-36" for gas

7. Test the light on the range hood

- Range hood recirculating instead of exhausting outside (check for exterior vent)

- Corrugated flex duct used instead of smooth metal (grease buildup hazard)

- Ductwork not sealed at joints (leaks into attic or wall cavity)

- Hood installed too high above cooktop (poor capture)

- Missing backdraft damper — cold air enters when hood is off

- Excessive duct length or too many elbows reducing airflow

Kitchen flooring must be properly installed on a flat, clean subfloor. Transitions to adjoining rooms should be smooth and trip-free. Flooring should extend under appliances.

1. Walk the entire floor slowly — feel for any soft spots, squeaks, or unevenness

2. Check flatness with a long straightedge — maximum 3/16" variation in 10 feet

3. Inspect all edges along cabinets and walls — should have consistent expansion gap covered by baseboard or shoe molding

4. Check transitions to other rooms — should be smooth, no trip hazards, proper transition strips

5. Verify flooring extends under the dishwasher and refrigerator (or proper trim at edges)

6. Look for scratches, chips, or damage from construction

7. For tile: tap tiles and listen for hollow sounds (indicates poor adhesion)

8. Check that floor slopes slightly toward drain if one exists (utility/laundry area)

- Hollow tiles (poor thinset coverage) — will crack under heavy loads

- Flooring not extended under appliances — problems when replacing appliances later

- Missing or poorly fitted transition strips

- Visible expansion gaps without trim coverage

- Scratches from post-installation construction work

- Uneven subfloor causing visible dips or humps