Garage Conversion Inspection

Garage floor is typically 4" lower than house floor and slopes toward the garage door. Must address moisture, leveling, and insulation.

1. Measure floor height difference between garage and house — note if floor needs raising

2. Check for moisture on concrete slab — tape plastic test for 48 hours

3. Verify floor slope — garage floors slope to door, may need self-leveling compound

4. Check for proper vapor barrier if subfloor system is installed

5. Verify floor insulation if over crawl space or unheated area

6. Check that the transition from garage to house floor is smooth and meets code

- Floor level not raised to match house interior

- No moisture barrier on concrete

- Floor slope not addressed — water pools at interior wall

- No insulation under flooring — cold floor

- Trip hazard at floor transition

Garage walls and ceiling must be insulated to meet energy code. The garage door opening must be framed, insulated, and finished as an exterior wall.

1. Verify all exterior walls are insulated to local energy code requirements

2. Check that the garage door opening has been properly framed and insulated as a wall

3. Verify ceiling insulation (especially if there is unconditioned space above)

4. Check for air sealing at all penetrations, sill plates, and rim joists

5. Verify exterior finish on the former garage door opening matches the house

6. Check for any remaining gaps or drafts, especially at the garage door location

7. Verify windows were added if needed for egress and natural light

- Former garage door area poorly insulated

- No air sealing — drafty space

- Ceiling not insulated

- Exterior finish does not match house

- No windows added (no natural light or egress)

Heating and cooling must be extended to the converted space. Existing HVAC system must be sized to handle the additional load.

1. Verify heating is provided — check supply registers and feel for airflow

2. Check cooling supply if AC exists in the house

3. Verify return air path — at least one return register in the converted space

4. Check that the existing furnace/AC was evaluated for the additional load

5. Test temperature comfort — should be similar to other rooms in the house

6. If a mini-split was installed: verify it is properly mounted and drains condensate correctly

7. Check thermostat location — should sense the temperature of living areas

- No heating or cooling extended to the conversion

- Existing HVAC undersized for additional space

- No return air — doors must be open for airflow

- Space heaters used instead of permanent heating (code violation for habitable space)

- Mini-split condensate drain not properly routed

Electrical must be upgraded for habitable space. Fire separation from remaining garage must be maintained. Smoke and CO detectors required.

1. Check outlet spacing — maximum 12 feet apart along any wall

2. Verify AFCI protection on bedroom circuits

3. Test all outlets and switches

4. Check smoke detectors in all habitable rooms

5. Verify CO detector if fuel-burning appliance nearby

6. If part of the garage remains: verify fire-rated separation (5/8" Type X drywall, self-closing door)

7. Check that the electrical panel has adequate capacity for the additional circuits

- Insufficient outlets for habitable space

- Missing AFCI protection on bedrooms

- No smoke or CO detectors

- Fire separation to remaining garage compromised

- Panel overloaded

- Extension cords used for permanent wiring