Bathroom Renovation Inspection

Shower and tub surrounds require waterproof membrane behind tile. Shower pan must hold water without leaking. Cement board or equivalent moisture-resistant substrate required in wet areas.

1. Ask to see photos of waterproofing membrane installation (should have been documented before tiling)

2. Check for moisture-resistant substrate (cement board, not regular drywall) — tap the wall, cement board sounds solid and hard

3. Inspect the shower curb — should be solid with no flex when stepped on

4. Look for water stains on the ceiling below the bathroom (if accessible)

5. Run the shower for 10 minutes and check for any water appearing outside the shower area

6. Inspect caulk lines at all floor-to-wall joints and fixture penetrations

7. Check that the shower door or curtain contains water within the shower area

- Regular drywall used instead of cement board in wet areas (will eventually fail)

- No waterproof membrane behind tile — water penetrates grout and damages structure

- Shower pan not properly sloped to drain (water pools in corners)

- Gaps in caulk at wall-floor junction

- Shower curb not waterproofed — water seeps through to adjacent floor

- Missing vapor barrier behind cement board

All fixtures must be securely mounted, leak-free, and have functional shut-off valves. Toilet must be bolted to the floor and sealed. Hot water on the left side.

1. Grab the toilet and try to rock it — it should not move at all

2. Flush the toilet — it should flush completely and refill without running

3. Turn on all faucets — check hot and cold operation, water pressure

4. Check under the vanity for leaks while faucets run

5. Test shut-off valves for sink and toilet — should turn easily

6. Check drain speed — sink should drain without gurgling or slow drainage

7. Inspect caulk around toilet base, tub, and shower fixtures

8. Verify hot water is on the left side of all faucets (standard convention)

- Rocking toilet (loose bolts or uneven floor — causes wax ring failure)

- Slow drain indicating improper venting or partial blockage

- Faucet handles reversed (hot on right)

- Missing shut-off valves

- Caulk gaps around toilet base

- Low water pressure from kinked supply lines

All bathroom outlets require GFCI protection. Dedicated 20-amp circuit required. Light switches and outlets must be away from water sources. Exhaust fan required.

1. Test every outlet with a GFCI tester — must trip and reset properly

2. Check outlet locations — minimum 3 feet from tub/shower (or GFCI protected)

3. Verify the exhaust fan operates and actually moves air (hold tissue to verify suction)

4. Check that the exhaust fan is ducted to the exterior (not into attic)

5. Test all light switches and light fixtures

6. Verify no switches or outlets are inside the shower/tub area

7. Check that vanity light fixtures near mirror are properly rated for damp/wet locations

- Missing GFCI protection on bathroom outlets

- Exhaust fan ducted into attic instead of exterior (causes mold)

- Outlet too close to water source without GFCI

- Fan switch not separate from light switch (fan should run independently)

- Undersized exhaust fan for bathroom size (need 1 CFM per sq ft minimum)

- Missing exhaust fan entirely

Tiles must be firmly bonded with consistent grout lines. No lippage exceeding 1/32" for rectified tiles or 1/16" for standard. Grout must be complete with no voids.

1. Tap tiles with a coin or knuckle — listen for hollow sounds (indicates tile is not bonded)

2. Check grout lines — should be consistent width, fully filled, no gaps or holes

3. Run your hand over tile surface — check for lippage (edges sticking up)

4. Inspect corners and edges — should have neat cuts, no chipped tiles

5. Check that caulk (not grout) is used at all change-of-plane joints (wall-to-wall corners, wall-to-floor)

6. Verify tile pattern is consistent and aligned

7. Look for cracked or chipped tiles

8. Check that drain is properly integrated with tile and slopes correctly

- Hollow tiles — will eventually crack or pop off

- Grout used at corners instead of caulk (will crack as building moves)

- Lippage at tile edges creating trip hazard or uneven surface

- Inconsistent grout line width

- Chipped tiles at cuts (dull blade or rushed cutting)

- Missing grout in some joints

- Tile not centered on focal wall

Bathroom exhaust fan required, minimum 50 CFM or 1 CFM per square foot for larger bathrooms. Must exhaust to exterior. Timer or humidity sensor recommended.

1. Turn on exhaust fan — hold a tissue to the grille, it should be sucked firmly against it

2. Go outside to the vent termination — verify air is actually exhausting

3. Check fan noise level — should not be excessively loud (look for sone rating on fan, 1.0 or less is good)

4. Verify fan timer or humidity sensor if installed

5. Check that vent duct is properly connected and insulated (condensation prevention)

6. Look at the fan grille — should be clean and properly attached

7. If there is an operable window, verify it opens and closes properly

- Fan exhausting into attic (causes mold and rot in roof structure)

- Duct disconnected from fan — air goes into ceiling cavity

- Fan too small for bathroom size

- No fan at all (relies only on window)

- Fan duct not insulated — condensation drips back

- Fan grille clogged with construction dust