Energy Certificate Preparation Checklist

Measure attic insulation depth and identify the type to calculate R-value (fiberglass batts: R-3.2/inch, blown cellulose: R-3.5/inch, spray foam: R-3.7 to R-6.5/inch depending on type). Compare to the Department of Energy recommended levels for your climate zone (R-38 to R-60 for attics in most US zones). Check wall insulation using an IR camera (thermal imaging) or the outlet method (remove an outlet cover on an exterior wall and probe the cavity with a thin wire). Inspect rim/band joist insulation in the basement and any basement or crawl space wall insulation.

1. Measure attic insulation depth at 6-8 points across the attic and calculate the average R-value based on material type

2. Use an IR camera on exterior walls during heating or cooling season to identify areas of missing insulation (cold spots)

3. Check rim/band joist areas in the basement for insulation; these are commonly uninsulated and a major source of heat loss

4. Inspect basement wall insulation (if present) for completeness, moisture damage, and proper installation

5. Check insulation around attic hatches, knee walls, and above garage ceilings, which are commonly under-insulated

- Attic insulation compressed, displaced, or missing in areas, creating thermal bridges and cold spots

- No insulation at the rim/band joist, which is one of the easiest and most cost-effective areas to insulate

- Wall insulation settled or missing in upper portions of wall cavities in older homes

- Attic access hatch or pull-down stairs with no insulation, creating a large heat loss point

Record the system age, manufacturer, model number, and efficiency ratings from the equipment nameplate: SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) for air conditioners, AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) for furnaces, and HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor) for heat pumps. Check for duct leakage using a duct blaster test or visual inspection of all accessible joints. Verify the refrigerant charge is correct (measured by a technician with gauges). Note if the system has been regularly maintained (clean filters, serviced coils).

1. Locate the equipment nameplate on each HVAC unit and record manufacturer, model, serial number, and efficiency ratings

2. Calculate system age from the serial number (manufacturer's website can decode) and note expected remaining lifespan

3. Inspect all accessible ductwork for disconnections, gaps at joints, and damaged insulation; seal any leaks found

4. If a duct blaster test is performed, record the total duct leakage in CFM25 and leakage to outside

5. Verify the maintenance history: recent filter changes, coil cleaning, and professional service records

- Old low-efficiency systems (pre-2006 AC at 10 SEER vs current minimum 14-15 SEER) significantly impacting the energy rating

- Duct leakage of 20-30% common in older homes, wasting conditioned air into unconditioned spaces

- Incorrect refrigerant charge reducing efficiency by 5-20% without obvious symptoms

- No maintenance records, which may negatively affect the energy rating assessment

Record the window type for each window in the home: single pane, double pane, or triple pane. Note the frame material (vinyl, wood, aluminum, fiberglass) and any low-E coating or gas fill. Check the NFRC label if still present for U-factor (lower is better; 0.30 or below is good for cold climates) and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC). Inspect weather sealing condition on all exterior doors. Look for condensation between panes on double/triple-pane windows, which indicates seal failure and loss of insulating gas.

1. Identify window type at each location: count reflections from a lighter held near the glass (2 reflections = single pane, 4 = double pane)

2. Check for NFRC labels or etched markings on the glass that indicate U-factor and SHGC ratings

3. Note frame material for each window group (vinyl, wood, aluminum, composite)

4. Check for failed seals by looking for condensation, fogging, or mineral deposits between panes

5. Inspect weatherstripping on all exterior doors; check for daylight around closed doors

- Single-pane windows with aluminum frames (common pre-1980) having very poor U-factor (1.0+), dragging down the energy rating

- Seal failures in double-pane windows reducing insulation value to near single-pane performance

- Missing or worn weatherstripping on exterior doors causing significant air leakage

- No NFRC labels available, requiring the assessor to use default (worst-case) values for the rating

Conduct a blower door test per ASTM E779 or RESNET standards to measure the total air leakage of the building envelope. The test measures air changes per hour at 50 pascals of pressure (ACH50). Target values: 3-5 ACH50 for existing homes, less than 3 ACH50 for new construction (2018 IECC requires 3-5 depending on climate zone). During the test, use a smoke pencil or theatrical fog to identify major leak sites at penetrations, joints, and transitions between building materials.

1. Set up the blower door fan in an exterior door per ASTM E779 protocol

2. Depressurize the house to 50 Pa and record the airflow rate (CFM50); calculate ACH50 from the building volume

3. With the house depressurized, use a smoke pencil to trace air leaks at common locations: recessed lights, plumbing penetrations, electrical outlets, attic hatch, rim joists

4. Record the top 5-10 leak sites identified for prioritized air sealing

5. Compare the ACH50 result to code requirements and industry benchmarks for the home's age and type

- Very leaky older homes (10-20+ ACH50) that score poorly on energy ratings without air sealing work

- Major leaks at the attic-to-conditioned-space boundary (tops of walls, around chimneys, plumbing chases)

- Recessed can lights in insulated ceilings that are not IC-rated and airtight, each leaking 10-20 CFM

- Duct leakage in unconditioned spaces contributing to the blower door reading and overall energy loss

Count all light fixtures in the home and categorize by bulb type: LED, CFL, or incandescent/halogen. Calculate the total installed lighting wattage and the percentage that is high-efficiency (LED or CFL). For the best energy rating, target 100% LED lighting. Note any lighting controls that improve efficiency: dimmer switches, occupancy/vacancy sensors, daylight sensors, or timer switches. Exterior lighting should also be catalogued, including any solar-powered or photocell-controlled fixtures.

1. Walk every room and count fixtures by type: LED, CFL, incandescent, halogen, and fluorescent tube

2. Calculate total lighting wattage (sum of all installed bulb wattages) and percentage that is LED/CFL

3. Note all lighting controls: dimmers, occupancy sensors, timers, and photocells

4. Check exterior lighting for efficiency (LED preferred) and controls (photocell or timer)

5. Identify any remaining incandescent or halogen bulbs and note the wattage for potential upgrade calculations

- High percentage of incandescent bulbs still installed, significantly increasing the lighting energy load

- Recessed lights with old incandescent flood bulbs (65W-150W each) that can be replaced with 10-15W LED equivalents

- No lighting controls in areas where occupancy sensors would save significant energy (closets, laundry, garage)

- Decorative fixtures with specialty bulbs (candelabra, globe) where LED replacements are now widely available but not yet installed

Document any installed solar photovoltaic (PV) system: total capacity in kilowatts (kW), annual production in kilowatt-hours (kWh) from utility bills or monitoring system, system age, panel manufacturer and model, inverter type (string, micro, or optimizer), and remaining warranty. Note other renewable energy systems: solar thermal (hot water), geothermal heat pump, or wind. Verify any net metering agreement with the utility and confirm it is current and transferable if the property is being sold.

1. Record the solar PV system size (kW DC) from the inverter nameplate or installation documentation

2. Obtain annual production data from the monitoring system or by reviewing 12 months of utility bills

3. Note the system age, warranty terms, and any maintenance history or repairs

4. Verify the net metering agreement is active and check the terms for transferability to a new owner

5. Document any other renewable systems (solar thermal, geothermal) with capacity, age, and condition

- No production data available because the monitoring system is not connected or was never set up

- Net metering agreement expired or under unfavorable legacy terms that do not transfer to a new owner

- Solar panels past their production warranty with no documentation of current performance vs rated capacity

- Roof-mounted system creating complications for roof replacement (panels must be removed and reinstalled)

Compile all audit findings into the appropriate energy rating software (HERS Index using REM/Rate or similar approved software, or the local equivalent certification system). Generate the official energy rating report showing the current score, component-level breakdown, and comparison to reference benchmarks. Identify the most cost-effective upgrades by comparing the improvement in rating score per dollar invested (air sealing and insulation typically offer the best return). Submit the completed report for certification through the appropriate program (RESNET HERS, ENERGY STAR, or local energy certification).

1. Verify all data inputs are entered correctly in the rating software (insulation values, HVAC efficiency, window specs, air leakage, lighting)

2. Review the generated HERS index or equivalent score for reasonableness based on the home's age and condition

3. Check the recommended upgrades list and verify the cost estimates are realistic for the local market

4. Confirm the report includes all required sections for the certification program being used

5. Submit to the certifying body and retain copies of the final certified report for the property file

- Incorrect data entry in the rating software producing an inaccurate score (garbage in, garbage out)

- Using default values instead of measured values when measurements were available, resulting in a worse score than actual

- Not identifying the most cost-effective upgrades, missing opportunities for significant rating improvement at low cost

- Certification expired or not submitted, requiring re-assessment if the report is needed for a transaction