Annual Home Maintenance Inspection Checklist

Inspect the roof from the ground using binoculars for damaged, curling, or missing shingles. Check all flashing at roof penetrations (chimneys, vents, skylights) for lifting or rust. Clean gutters and downspouts, verifying water flows freely and downspouts discharge at least 4' from the foundation. Inspect siding and exterior paint for peeling, cracking, or rot. Check chimney mortar joints for deterioration and cap for damage. Look for evidence of animal entry (gaps, chew marks, droppings).

1. Walk the perimeter and visually inspect the roof from all angles for missing or damaged shingles

2. Check all flashing at chimneys, vents, and skylights for rust, lifting, or gaps

3. Run water through gutters and downspouts to verify flow; check for sagging sections or loose hangers

4. Inspect siding for peeling paint, warping, rot (probe with screwdriver), and gaps at joints

5. Check chimney mortar by probing with a screwdriver; crumbling mortar needs repointing

- Missing shingles not visible from the ground that are only detected after a leak develops

- Clogged gutters causing ice dams in winter and fascia rot year-round

- Deteriorated chimney mortar allowing water penetration that damages interior walls

- Rotted siding behind downspouts or at ground contact points that is not noticed until severe

Walk the entire foundation perimeter checking for new cracks, efflorescence (white mineral deposits indicating water passage), and spalling. Cracks wider than 1/4" or any horizontal cracks are structural concerns requiring professional evaluation. Verify that the grade slopes away from the house at a rate of at least 6" of drop in the first 10' in all directions. Check interior basement walls for water stains, dampness, or mold that indicate foundation water intrusion.

1. Inspect the full foundation perimeter for cracks and mark any new ones with date and size for monitoring

2. Measure grade slope at 4-6 points around the house; verify at least 6" drop in the first 10'

3. Check interior basement walls for water stains, efflorescence, or musty odor indicating moisture

4. Look for signs of settling: sticking doors, cracked drywall at corners, sloping floors

5. Inspect window wells for debris accumulation and proper drainage

- Soil settling against the foundation over time, reversing the grade and directing water toward the house

- Hairline cracks that are monitored but not repaired, growing into significant structural cracks

- Mulch or landscaping piled against the foundation, trapping moisture and promoting termite access

- Window well drains clogged with leaves and debris, allowing wells to fill with water during rain

Inspect under all sinks, around toilets, and at all visible pipe connections for leaks, corrosion, or water damage. Flush the water heater to remove sediment (connect a hose to the drain valve, open it until water runs clear). Test water pressure with a gauge at a hose bib; normal is 40-80 PSI (over 80 PSI requires a pressure reducing valve). Check toilets for running or leaking by adding food coloring to the tank and watching for color in the bowl without flushing. Inspect visible supply and drain pipes for corrosion or signs of failure.

1. Look under every sink with a flashlight for drips, stains, or swelling on the cabinet floor

2. Check all visible pipe connections and valves for corrosion, green/white deposits, or slow drips

3. Test water pressure at an exterior hose bib with a pressure gauge; record the reading

4. Flush the water heater drain valve until water runs clear (typically 2-3 gallons)

5. Add food coloring to each toilet tank; if color appears in the bowl within 15 minutes without flushing, the flapper needs replacement

- Slow leaks under sinks that go unnoticed until they cause cabinet damage or mold growth

- Water heater sediment buildup reducing efficiency and causing premature tank failure

- Water pressure too high (over 80 PSI) stressing fixtures and supply lines, causing premature failure

- Running toilets wasting hundreds of gallons per month due to a worn flapper valve

Test all GFCI outlets by pressing the test button (the outlet should trip immediately) and then the reset button. Inspect the electrical panel for any tripped breakers, scorch marks, or signs of overheating. Test all smoke and carbon monoxide detectors by pressing the test button; replace batteries annually and replace detectors per manufacturer lifespan (typically 10 years for smoke, 5-7 years for CO). Check for warm outlets or switches, which may indicate loose connections that create fire hazards.

1. Test every GFCI outlet in the house (kitchens, bathrooms, garage, exterior, basement) by pressing the test button; plug in a radio and verify it shuts off

2. Open the electrical panel cover and inspect for scorch marks, corrosion, or any breaker that will not stay reset

3. Press the test button on all smoke and CO detectors; verify the alarm sounds immediately

4. Feel all frequently used outlets and switches for warmth; warm plates indicate a loose connection

5. Check for any exposed wiring, damaged outlet covers, or missing junction box covers throughout the house

- GFCI outlets that do not trip when tested, providing no shock protection (replace immediately)

- Smoke detectors with dead batteries or past their expiration date (check the manufacture date on the back)

- Warm outlets or light switches ignored until they cause an electrical fire

- Double-tapped breakers (two wires on one breaker) that are a fire hazard and code violation

Replace or clean HVAC air filters (every 1-3 months depending on type and conditions). Clean the outdoor condenser unit by rinsing coils with a garden hose (turn off power first) and removing debris from around the unit (maintain 2' clearance). Check refrigerant line insulation on the suction (larger) line; replace if damaged. Test both heating and cooling modes to verify proper operation before the start of each season. Pour a cup of bleach down the condensate drain line to prevent clogs and algae buildup.

1. Pull the air filter and inspect; replace if visibly dirty or at the interval recommended by the manufacturer

2. Inspect the outdoor condenser coils for dirt, leaves, and bent fins; clean with a hose from the inside out

3. Check the refrigerant line insulation (large copper line) for damage, gaps, or deterioration

4. Run the system in both heating and cooling modes and verify the output temperature matches expectations (55-65F supply air in cooling, 100-120F in heating)

5. Check the condensate drain line for flow; pour water into the drain pan and verify it exits at the drain terminus

- Dirty filters restricting airflow, causing the evaporator coil to freeze and the system to lose efficiency

- Condenser unit choked with leaves, grass clippings, or cottonwood, reducing cooling capacity

- Clogged condensate drain causing water backup into the drain pan and eventual overflow and water damage

- Not testing the system before the season, discovering a failure on the first hot or cold day

Test all smoke detectors by pressing and holding the test button until the alarm sounds. Test all carbon monoxide detectors the same way. Replace batteries in all detectors annually (or verify sealed 10-year battery models are within their lifespan). Check the manufacture date on each detector; replace smoke detectors older than 10 years and CO detectors older than 5-7 years per NFPA 72. Check fire extinguisher pressure gauges (needle should be in the green zone) and verify the pull pin and tamper seal are intact. Verify escape routes are clear and all household members know the evacuation plan.

1. Test every smoke detector by holding the test button for 3-5 seconds; the alarm must sound

2. Test every CO detector the same way; verify the alarm sounds and the digital readout functions

3. Check the manufacture date on the back of each detector and replace any that are past their lifespan

4. Inspect fire extinguisher gauge (green zone = charged), pull pin, and tamper seal; shake powder extinguishers to prevent packing

5. Walk the escape route from each bedroom to verify doors open freely and paths are unobstructed

- Detectors with dead batteries or past their expiration date providing no protection

- Missing detectors in required locations (every bedroom, outside sleeping areas, every level per NFPA 72)

- Fire extinguisher discharged or past its service date (check the tag for last inspection)

- Escape routes blocked by furniture, storage, or locked doors without readily accessible keys

Inspect weatherstripping on all exterior doors for compression, cracking, or gaps; replace if daylight is visible around the closed door. Test all door locks and deadbolts for smooth operation; lubricate with graphite if stiff. Inspect caulking around all window and door frames for cracking, gaps, or separation; recaulk as needed with exterior-grade silicone or polyurethane caulk. Clean weep holes on the bottom of window frames to ensure condensation can drain. Check all window screens for tears or damage.

1. Close each exterior door and check for daylight visible around the edges (indicates worn weatherstripping)

2. Test all door locks and deadbolts; they should engage smoothly without force

3. Inspect caulking around all windows and doors from the exterior; press with a finger to check flexibility

4. Locate weep holes on the bottom of window frames and verify they are clear using a thin wire

5. Inspect all window screens for holes, tears, or bent frames; repair or replace as needed

- Worn weatherstripping on the front door alone can waste $50-100/year in heating and cooling costs

- Caulk that has hardened and cracked, allowing water behind the trim and into the wall cavity

- Clogged weep holes causing condensation to pool inside the window frame, leading to mold and rot

- Stuck or painted-shut windows that cannot be opened for emergency egress

In the attic: check insulation for gaps, compression, or displacement (insulation should be continuous with no visible ceiling drywall). Look for water stains on the underside of the roof sheathing indicating leaks. Check for daylight coming through the roof (small pinholes from nails are normal; larger light sources indicate damage). Verify bathroom exhaust fans vent to the exterior, not into the attic. In the basement: check for moisture, water stains, and mold on walls and floor. Test the sump pump by pouring a bucket of water into the pit and verifying the pump activates and discharges properly.

1. Inspect attic insulation for gaps or compressed areas; R-38 to R-60 is recommended depending on climate zone

2. Look for water stains on roof sheathing, especially around chimneys, vents, and valleys

3. Verify exhaust duct connections are intact and terminate at the exterior (not into the attic space)

4. In the basement, check walls and floor for new water stains, efflorescence, or musty odor

5. Test the sump pump by pouring 5 gallons of water into the pit; the pump should activate within seconds and fully evacuate the pit

- Insulation gaps around attic access hatches, recessed lights, and at eaves reducing overall thermal performance

- Bathroom exhaust fans dumping moisture into the attic, causing mold and wood rot on the sheathing

- Sump pump failure discovered only during a storm when the basement floods

- Basement moisture issues worsening over time due to failed gutters, poor grading, or foundation cracks

Clean the dryer vent duct from the dryer to the exterior termination (lint buildup is a leading cause of house fires). Replace flexible foil or vinyl dryer vent with rigid metal duct if present. Check washing machine supply hoses for bulging, cracking, or corrosion at fittings; replace rubber hoses every 5 years (stainless steel braided hoses last longer). Clean the dishwasher filter and spray arms. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and vacuum the condenser coils (underneath or on the back) to maintain efficiency.

1. Disconnect the dryer vent at the dryer and clean the full duct run; verify airflow at the exterior termination

2. Inspect washing machine hoses by feeling for bulges and checking fittings for corrosion; note the age of rubber hoses

3. Remove and clean the dishwasher filter (bottom of the tub); check spray arms for clogged holes

4. Pull the refrigerator out and vacuum condenser coils; check the door gasket seal with a dollar bill test (close the door on a bill; it should resist being pulled out)

5. Check the range hood filter and clean or replace if grease-saturated

- Dryer vent clogged with lint, creating a fire hazard and reducing dryer efficiency (clothes take longer to dry)

- Washing machine hose failure causing flooding (one of the most common homeowner insurance claims)

- Dirty refrigerator coils causing the compressor to overwork, increasing energy costs and shortening lifespan

- Dishwasher filter never cleaned, resulting in poor cleaning performance and odors