Faucet Replacement Checklist

Locate the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink and close them by turning clockwise (or lever to perpendicular position for quarter-turn valves). Open the faucet handles to release residual pressure and drain remaining water from the lines. Place a bucket or towels under the supply line connections to catch residual water when disconnecting.

1. Locate hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink

2. Close both valves fully (clockwise or lever perpendicular to pipe)

3. Open faucet handles to relieve pressure and confirm water is off

4. If no shutoff valves exist under sink, shut off at main water supply

5. Place bucket directly under supply line connections

6. Lay towels on cabinet floor to catch drips

- No shutoff valves under sink (older homes) — must shut off main water supply

- Corroded gate valves that will not close fully — water continues to trickle

- Forgetting to open faucet to release pressure — water sprays when supply lines are disconnected

- Not having bucket positioned before disconnecting — water damages cabinet interior

Disconnect the hot and cold supply lines from the faucet tailpieces using an adjustable wrench or basin wrench. Remove the mounting nuts from underneath the sink — a basin wrench is essential in tight spaces where a standard wrench cannot reach. Lift the old faucet out from above. Disconnect the sprayer hose if equipped. Remove any mounting hardware left in the sink holes.

1. Disconnect supply lines from faucet tailpieces (catch water in bucket)

2. Use basin wrench to reach mounting nuts in tight spaces under sink

3. Remove all mounting nuts and washers from faucet tailpieces

4. Disconnect sprayer hose from faucet body if present

5. Lift old faucet straight up and out of mounting holes

6. Remove any remaining gaskets, putty, or mounting hardware from sink deck

- Corroded mounting nuts seized onto tailpieces — use penetrating oil and let soak 15 minutes

- Cannot reach mounting nuts — basin wrench is required (standard wrench will not fit)

- Plastic mounting nuts crack when forced — replace with new hardware from new faucet kit

- Old faucet stuck to sink deck with dried putty — use a putty knife to break the seal from above

Remove all old plumber's putty, silicone, and mineral deposits from the sink deck around the mounting holes. Use a plastic putty knife to avoid scratching the sink surface. Clean the mounting holes thoroughly. Verify the hole spacing matches the new faucet: 4-inch centerset (3 holes, 4 inches apart), 8-inch widespread (3 holes, 8 inches apart), or single-hole configuration.

1. Scrape off old plumber's putty with plastic putty knife

2. Remove old silicone or caulk residue with rubbing alcohol or adhesive remover

3. Clean mineral deposits around holes with white vinegar or CLR

4. Measure center-to-center distance between outer mounting holes

5. Verify new faucet matches existing hole configuration (4" centerset, 8" widespread, or single-hole)

6. If switching configurations, verify deck plate is included to cover unused holes

- Old putty residue prevents new gasket from sealing — causes leaks under sink deck

- Hole spacing does not match new faucet — need adapter plate or different faucet model

- Scratching sink surface with metal scraper — use only plastic tools on porcelain/acrylic

- Mineral buildup inside mounting holes — prevents faucet tailpieces from seating flush

Apply plumber's putty (or use the rubber gasket if provided) around the base plate or faucet base to create a watertight seal against the sink deck. Insert faucet tailpieces through the mounting holes from above. From below, install the mounting hardware: rubber gasket, metal washer, and mounting nut. Tighten mounting nuts firmly but do not overtighten — snug plus 1/4 turn is sufficient.

1. Roll plumber's putty into 1/4-inch rope and place around faucet base (or position rubber gasket)

2. Feed faucet tailpieces and supply lines through sink holes from above

3. Center faucet on sink and press down to seat putty or gasket

4. From below, slide on rubber gasket, then metal washer, then thread mounting nut

5. Hand tighten mounting nut, then snug with basin wrench (1/4 turn past hand tight)

6. Verify faucet is centered and does not rotate on the sink deck

7. Wipe away excess putty that squeezes out around the base

- Using silicone instead of putty on non-porous surfaces — silicone is harder to remove later

- Faucet spins on sink deck — mounting nuts not tight enough

- Overtightening plastic mounting nuts — they crack and lose clamping force

- Not using any sealant — water wicks under faucet base and drips into cabinet

Connect new braided stainless steel supply lines between the shutoff valves and the faucet tailpieces. Hand tighten each connection, then snug with an adjustable wrench — 1/4 turn past hand tight. Do not use thread tape on compression fittings. Verify hot supply (left shutoff valve) connects to the left faucet tailpiece (hot) and cold supply (right shutoff valve) connects to the right tailpiece (cold). Ensure lines have no kinks.

1. Connect supply line from left shutoff valve to left (hot) faucet tailpiece

2. Connect supply line from right shutoff valve to right (cold) faucet tailpiece

3. Hand tighten each of the four connections, then 1/4 turn with wrench

4. Verify no kinks in supply lines — reroute if lines are too long (coil gently, do not bend sharply)

5. Confirm hot is on left and cold is on right (universal standard)

6. Check that connections are to the correct valve — hot water line is typically closer to the wall on the left

- Hot and cold reversed — uncomfortable for users and may violate plumbing code

- Kinked supply lines — restricts water flow and may burst under pressure

- Over-tightened compression fittings — deforms ferrule and causes leaks

- Using old supply lines with new faucet — old lines may have weakened rubber and can burst

Open shutoff valves slowly (one at a time) while watching all connections for leaks. Run both hot and cold water for 2-3 minutes. Check all four supply line connections, the faucet base seal, and under the sink deck for any drips. Test the sprayer if equipped. Verify the drain pop-up mechanism operates properly — opens and closes fully.

1. Slowly open the cold water shutoff valve while watching the connection

2. Slowly open the hot water shutoff valve while watching the connection

3. Run cold water for 1-2 minutes, inspecting all connections with a dry paper towel

4. Run hot water for 1-2 minutes, inspecting all connections

5. Test sprayer function (pull out, verify retraction, check hose connection under sink)

6. Test drain pop-up rod — lift knob should open and close drain stopper fully

7. Check under sink deck with dry paper towel for any moisture wicking through

8. Re-check all connections after 15 minutes — some leaks only appear after thermal expansion

- Slow drip at shutoff valve connection — tighten 1/8 turn at a time until it stops

- Water seeping around faucet base — reseat with fresh plumber's putty

- Sprayer hose leaks at connection — check O-ring and hand tighten connection

- Drain pop-up does not seal — adjust the clevis strap position on the lift rod