Cabinet Refinishing & Painting Checklist

Number every door and drawer with painter's tape and a marker (e.g., "Upper Left 1", "Base Right 3") to ensure correct reinstallation. Remove all hardware — hinges, pulls, and knobs — and bag each door's hardware separately with its number. Remove doors from cabinets. Set up a dedicated spray and drying area with sawhorses and drop cloths. Protect countertops, appliances, and floors with plastic sheeting and painter's tape.

1. Number every door and drawer on the back or hidden edge with tape and marker

2. Record a photo or diagram of the kitchen layout with numbers for reference

3. Remove hinges from doors (not from cabinet boxes, unless painting boxes too)

4. Remove all pulls, knobs, and catches

5. Bag each door's hardware separately and label the bag with the door number

6. Set up sawhorses in a well-ventilated spray area with drop cloths underneath

7. Cover countertops and appliances with plastic sheeting

8. Tape off walls adjacent to cabinet boxes if painting in place

- Not numbering doors — hinges and alignment vary between positions, causing poor fit on reinstall

- Removing hinges from the cabinet box instead of the door — makes box-side painting harder

- Losing small hardware pieces — bag and label immediately upon removal

- Inadequate ventilation in spray area — causes poor drying and health hazard from fumes

Clean all surfaces thoroughly with TSP (trisodium phosphate) solution or a dedicated kitchen degreaser. Pay special attention to areas around the stove, oven, and where hands regularly contact the surface (around handles and edges). Grease contamination is the number one cause of paint failure on kitchen cabinets. Rinse all surfaces with clean water after degreasing and allow to dry completely before sanding.

1. Mix TSP per package directions (typically 1/4 cup per gallon of warm water)

2. Scrub all door surfaces, edges, and backs with TSP solution and a scrub sponge

3. Give extra attention to areas near stove and around handle locations

4. Scrub cabinet box face frames, sides, and interiors if being painted

5. Rinse all surfaces with clean water using a fresh sponge

6. Wipe down with clean damp cloth to remove any TSP residue

7. Allow surfaces to dry completely (minimum 2-4 hours) before sanding

- Skipping degreasing near stove — grease causes paint to peel within months

- Not rinsing TSP residue — leaves a film that prevents primer adhesion

- Painting before surfaces are fully dry — traps moisture under primer and causes bubbling

- Using only a light wipe instead of thorough scrub — embedded grease remains in wood grain

Sand all surfaces with 120-grit sandpaper using a random orbital sander on flat surfaces. The goal is to scuff the existing finish to create mechanical adhesion for the primer — not to remove all of the old finish. Use sanding sponges for routed profiles, raised panel details, and inside corners where a flat sander cannot reach. After sanding, remove all dust with a tack cloth on every surface. Vacuum the work area to prevent dust contamination.

1. Sand all flat surfaces with 120-grit on a random orbital sander

2. Sand routed edges, profiles, and panel details with 120-grit sanding sponge

3. Sand inside corners and tight areas by hand with folded sandpaper

4. Check that all glossy areas are scuffed — the surface should feel uniformly dull

5. Vacuum all surfaces to remove bulk dust

6. Wipe every surface with a tack cloth to remove fine dust particles

7. Inspect for any remaining glossy spots and re-sand as needed

- Using too coarse a grit (60 or 80) — creates visible scratches through the paint finish

- Skipping detailed profiles and edges — paint peels from unsanded areas first

- Not removing sanding dust — dust trapped under primer creates bumps and poor adhesion

- Over-sanding through to bare wood in spots — creates uneven color absorption under primer

Apply a bonding primer designed for previously finished surfaces. Shellac-based primers (such as Zinsser BIN) provide the best adhesion on slick factory finishes and block tannin bleed from wood. Apply thin, even coats with a foam roller on flat surfaces and a high-quality brush for detail areas. Allow full drying time per manufacturer instructions. After primer dries, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth any texture, then tack cloth all surfaces.

1. Select bonding primer (shellac-based recommended for existing finishes)

2. Stir primer thoroughly — do not shake (creates bubbles)

3. Apply thin even coat with 4-inch foam roller on flat surfaces

4. Brush corners, edges, and profiles with a high-quality 2-inch angled brush

5. Check for drips, runs, and heavy spots — brush out immediately

6. Allow full drying time per manufacturer (shellac primers typically 45 minutes)

7. Lightly sand all primed surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper

8. Wipe with tack cloth to remove sanding dust before painting

- Using standard latex primer on slick factory finish — poor adhesion, paint peels

- Applying primer too thick — runs, drips, and extended dry time

- Skipping 220-grit sanding between primer and paint — rough texture visible in final finish

- Not using tannin-blocking primer on oak — tannin bleed-through shows as yellow-brown streaks

Apply 2-3 thin coats of cabinet-grade paint. Alkyd (oil-based) paint or acrylic-alkyd hybrid (such as Benjamin Moore Advance or Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane) provides the hardest, most durable finish for cabinets. Use a high-density foam roller (4-inch) for flat surfaces to achieve a smooth, near-spray finish. Use a quality nylon-polyester brush for edges and details. Allow full recoat time between coats — rushing causes lifting and poor adhesion.

1. Stir paint thoroughly (do not shake)

2. Load foam roller lightly — thin coats are critical for a smooth finish

3. Roll flat surfaces in one direction, then lightly tip off in the opposite direction

4. Brush edges, profiles, and corners with a quality 2-inch angled brush

5. Check for drips, runs, and brush marks — smooth out immediately

6. Allow full recoat time between coats (typically 16-24 hours for alkyd hybrids)

7. Lightly sand with 320-grit between coats for best inter-coat adhesion

8. Apply 2-3 coats total for full opacity and durability

- Applying coats too thick — creates runs, drips, orange peel texture, and extended cure time

- Not allowing full recoat time — subsequent coat lifts or wrinkles the previous coat

- Using standard wall paint — not durable enough for cabinet use, chips and scratches easily

- Foam roller leaving bubbles — roller is moving too fast or paint is too thick, thin slightly per manufacturer

Allow a minimum of 7 days for full paint cure before reassembling cabinets. Alkyd and hybrid paints require extended cure time to reach full hardness — handling too soon causes fingerprints, sticking, and damage to the finish. Rehang doors using the numbered system to ensure correct placement. Install new hardware if desired (new pulls can transform the final look). Adjust hinge screws for proper door alignment — even spacing on all sides.

1. Wait minimum 7 days after final coat before reassembly (14 days is better for alkyd)

2. Test cure by pressing a fingernail into a hidden area — no mark should remain

3. Rehang doors in their numbered positions using original hinge holes

4. Tighten hinge screws gradually — do not overtighten into soft primer/paint

5. Adjust hinges for even reveal (gap) around all door edges

6. Install pulls or knobs — use a hardware template jig for consistent placement on new holes

7. Check all doors open and close freely without rubbing

8. Install soft-close bumper pads on cabinet frames if not using soft-close hinges

- Reassembling too soon — doors stick together and paint surface is damaged

- Doors not aligned after rehanging — adjust hinge depth and lateral screws

- Stripping screw holes by overtightening — use toothpick and glue to repair stripped holes

- New hardware holes not aligned — always use a drilling template jig for consistency