Tree Removal Safety Checklist

Evaluate the tree's health, lean direction, crown weight distribution, and proximity to structures and utilities. Check for dead branches, cavities, fungal conks, and root damage that indicate structural weakness. Look for power lines within falling distance and call the utility company if lines are present (never attempt to remove trees near power lines yourself). Determine if professional removal is needed: trees over 12" in diameter, those leaning toward structures, or any tree within reach of power lines should be handled by a certified arborist.

1. Measure trunk diameter at 4.5' height (DBH) to determine if professional removal is recommended (>12" DBH)

2. Assess lean direction and determine natural fall direction based on lean, crown weight, and wind exposure

3. Check for hazards: power lines (stay 35'+ away), dead limbs, hanging branches, bee or wasp nests, and split trunks

4. Inspect the base for root decay, mushrooms, or soil heaving that indicate root failure risk

5. Evaluate if the tree can be felled in one piece or must be sectioned due to proximity to structures

- Underestimating tree weight and size, leading to dangerous situations during felling

- Failing to identify dead branches that can fall during the cutting process

- Not recognizing internal decay that changes the tree's structural behavior during felling

- Attempting to remove trees near power lines without calling the utility company first

Many municipalities require a permit to remove trees over a certain diameter (commonly 6" DBH or greater). Protected species such as heritage oaks, native elms, or other designated trees may prohibit removal entirely or require mitigation planting. Check your local tree ordinance and HOA rules before any cutting. Obtain the required permit and allow for processing time. Call 811 before any stump grinding or excavation to have underground utilities marked.

1. Contact the local planning or forestry department to determine if a tree removal permit is required based on species and size

2. Identify the tree species and check if it is on any protected or heritage tree list

3. Review HOA CC&Rs for tree removal restrictions or approval requirements

4. Apply for and receive the permit before beginning any work

5. Call 811 at least 3 business days before stump grinding or any digging near the tree base

- Removing a protected tree without a permit, resulting in fines of $500-$10,000+ depending on jurisdiction

- Not checking HOA rules, leading to violation notices and required replacement planting

- Removing a neighbor's tree or a tree on the property line without agreement, creating legal liability

- Failing to call 811 before grinding, hitting underground gas, electric, or fiber optic lines

Clear an area at least 2x the tree height in the intended fall direction. Set up warning signs or barrier tape around the full perimeter of the work zone. Ensure a clear escape route planned at 45 degrees away from the intended fall direction on both sides. All personnel must wear required PPE: hard hat, chainsaw chaps or cut-resistant leg protection, eye protection, hearing protection, steel-toed boots, and work gloves. Remove bystanders and pets from the entire work zone.

1. Measure or estimate tree height and verify the cleared area is at least 2x that distance in the fall direction

2. Confirm the escape route is clear of obstacles and runs at 45 degrees away from the fall direction

3. Verify all workers are wearing complete PPE: hard hat, chaps, eye protection, hearing protection, and steel-toed boots

4. Check that bystanders, vehicles, and pets are outside the perimeter barrier

5. Confirm a second person is present as a safety observer and both workers know the warning signal

- Underestimating tree height, resulting in a safety zone that is too small

- Escape route blocked by brush, logs, or equipment, preventing quick retreat

- Bystanders re-entering the work zone during the operation

- Working alone without a safety observer, which is extremely dangerous for chainsaw operations

Clear all brush and obstacles around the base of the tree for safe footing. Make the notch cut (face cut) on the side facing the intended fall direction: first a horizontal cut approximately one-third of the way through the trunk, then an angled cut (60-70 degrees) meeting the horizontal cut to remove a wedge. The back cut is made on the opposite side, 2" above the bottom of the notch, cutting horizontally toward the notch but stopping 1-2" short to leave a hinge of uncut wood that controls the fall direction.

1. Verify the notch is cut on the correct side (facing the intended fall direction) and is approximately one-third the trunk diameter

2. Confirm the two notch cuts meet cleanly with no step or overcut

3. Check that the back cut is level and positioned 2" above the bottom of the notch

4. Verify 1-2" of hinge wood is left intact between the back cut and the notch (the hinge controls the fall)

5. Have a felling wedge ready to insert into the back cut to prevent the saw from being pinched

- Notch cut too shallow (less than one-third diameter), providing insufficient directional control

- Back cut at the same height as the notch bottom, eliminating the hinge step that prevents kickback

- Cutting through the hinge wood completely, losing all directional control of the fall

- Not having a clear understanding of the fall direction before beginning cuts

Complete the back cut steadily, insert a felling wedge if needed to prevent pinching and encourage the fall direction, then retreat immediately along the planned escape route once the tree begins to move. Never turn your back on a falling tree. For large trees that cannot be felled in one piece: limb the trunk from the bottom up while standing on the uphill side, then section the trunk from the top down if climbing or using a bucket lift. All limbing cuts should be made with the saw on the opposite side of the trunk from your body.

1. Verify the tree fell in the intended direction within a safe margin

2. After felling, wait and watch for falling debris (dead branches, broken tops) before approaching

3. For sectioning, confirm each cut piece has a clear fall path before cutting

4. Check that limbing is performed from the base toward the top, with the trunk between you and the saw

5. Verify no hung-up branches or leaning sections remain that could fall unexpectedly

- Tree falling in an unintended direction due to wind, hidden decay, or improper hinge

- Barber chair (vertical split up the trunk) caused by cutting a leaning tree without proper technique

- Limbs under tension springing back when cut, striking the operator

- Not retreating along the escape route quickly enough when the tree begins to fall

Stump grinding is the most common removal method: use a stump grinder to grind the stump 6-12" below the surrounding grade, including major surface roots. Fill the resulting hole with a mix of the wood chips and topsoil, mound slightly above grade to allow for settling. For chemical treatment as an alternative: drill 1" holes 8-12" deep into the stump face, fill with potassium nitrate stump remover, add water, and cover. Wait 4-6 weeks for decomposition before removal. Always call 811 before grinding to avoid underground utilities.

1. Verify the stump is ground at least 6" below the surrounding grade (12" if replanting in the same spot)

2. Confirm all major surface roots within the grinding radius are also ground below grade

3. Fill the hole with chips and topsoil, mounded 2-3" above grade to account for settling

4. For chemical treatment, verify holes are drilled throughout the stump face and filled with stump remover

5. Check that no utility lines were damaged during grinding (compare with 811 markings)

- Grinding too shallow, leaving a bump that interferes with mowing or new planting

- Not grinding surface roots, which continue to grow and push up pavement or lawn

- Using chemical stump remover near desirable trees whose roots may be grafted to the stump

- Not calling 811, resulting in hitting a gas line, fiber optic cable, or irrigation line during grinding

Chip all branches and small limbs for use as mulch (keep chips 3" away from tree trunks when reused in landscape beds). Cut trunk sections into firewood lengths (16-18") or arrange for haul-away. Fill all ruts from equipment with topsoil and compact lightly. Grade the stump area and any disturbed ground to match surrounding grade and ensure positive drainage. Seed or sod all bare soil areas within 2 weeks to prevent erosion.

1. Verify all branches and debris are removed or chipped; no debris remains in neighboring yards

2. Confirm equipment ruts are filled and compacted to match surrounding grade

3. Check that the stump area is graded smooth with no depression or mound remaining

4. Verify all bare soil is seeded or sodded and covered with straw mulch to prevent erosion

5. Inspect the site for any remaining hazards: wood chips on walkways, disturbed sprinkler heads, or damaged fencing

- Leaving wood chips in a thick layer that smothers grass and creates a dead spot

- Not filling ruts, which become trip hazards and collect standing water

- Forgetting to repair damaged landscape features (irrigation lines, landscape lighting, edging)

- Leaving sawdust and chips on driveways or walkways where they create a slip hazard