Power Washing Checklist

Identify all surfaces to be cleaned and select the appropriate pressure setting for each. Concrete and masonry can handle 2500-3000 PSI. Softwood decks should be limited to 1000-1500 PSI. Vinyl siding should not exceed 1200-1500 PSI. Painted wood should stay under 1500 PSI. For structures built before 1978, test for lead paint before pressure washing — disturbing lead paint creates hazardous dust and may require EPA RRP certified contractor.

1. Walk the property and catalog all surfaces to be cleaned

2. Note surface material for each area (concrete, wood, vinyl, brick, stucco)

3. Select PSI setting: 2500-3000 for concrete, 1500 max for wood, 1200-1500 for vinyl

4. Check age of structure — if pre-1978, test for lead paint before washing

5. Inspect surfaces for existing damage (loose mortar, cracked siding, peeling paint)

6. Note areas that need pre-treatment for oil stains, mildew, or algae

7. Plan wash sequence — typically start highest and work down

- Using too high pressure on soft wood — gouges and splinters the surface permanently

- Pressure washing vinyl siding at upward angle — forces water behind siding causing mold

- Not testing for lead paint on older homes — creates EPA compliance issue and health hazard

- Pressure washing damaged surfaces — water penetrates through cracks and causes rot or interior damage

Cover all exterior electrical outlets, light fixtures, and doorbells with plastic and tape. Close all windows and doors tightly. Move or cover outdoor furniture, grills, and potted plants. Pre-wet all plants and landscaping within 10 feet of the work area to dilute any detergent runoff. Verify the water supply can deliver at least 2 GPM (gallons per minute) — insufficient supply causes pump damage on the pressure washer.

1. Cover all exterior electrical outlets with plastic sheeting and waterproof tape

2. Cover light fixtures and doorbells

3. Close all windows and doors — verify they are latched

4. Move outdoor furniture, cushions, and decorative items away from work area

5. Pre-soak all landscaping and plants near the work area with garden hose

6. Verify water supply flow rate — fill a 5-gallon bucket and time it (should fill in 2.5 minutes or less for 2 GPM)

7. Connect garden hose to pressure washer, then connect to water supply

8. Check all hose connections for leaks before starting

- Water entering uncovered electrical outlets — shock hazard and can trip breakers

- Forgetting to close windows — water damage to interior

- Insufficient water supply — causes pressure washer pump to cavitate and fail

- Not pre-wetting plants — detergent runoff kills landscaping

Select the appropriate detergent for the surface and soil type: degreaser for driveways and garage floors, sodium hypochlorite-based cleaner for mildew and algae on siding, oxalic acid-based cleaner for wood decks. Apply detergent using the low-pressure soap nozzle (black tip). On vertical surfaces, apply from bottom to top to prevent streaking. Allow 5-10 minutes of dwell time but do not let detergent dry on the surface.

1. Select correct detergent for the job (degreaser, mildew remover, or wood cleaner)

2. Fill pressure washer detergent tank or attach siphon tube to detergent container

3. Install low-pressure soap nozzle (black tip)

4. Apply detergent to surface in even passes

5. On vertical surfaces, start at the bottom and work up to prevent streaking

6. Allow 5-10 minutes dwell time — keep surface wet, do not let detergent dry

7. Reapply to any areas that dry out before rinsing

- Letting detergent dry on surface — causes staining and streaks that are difficult to remove

- Using bleach-based cleaner on wood — damages wood fibers and causes premature graying

- Applying detergent top-down on vertical surfaces — creates streaks as dirty solution runs down

- Using household detergent instead of pressure washer-rated product — may damage pump seals

Select the appropriate spray tip: 25-degree (green) for most general cleaning, 40-degree (white) for delicate surfaces like wood and vinyl, 15-degree (yellow) for tough stains on concrete, and 0-degree (red) only for very specific heavy-duty concrete work. Maintain 12-inch minimum distance for wood and vinyl, 6-8 inches for concrete. Overlap each pass by approximately 50 percent for even cleaning. After detergent application, rinse from top to bottom.

1. Select correct spray tip for the surface (25° general, 40° delicate, 15° tough stains)

2. Start with the wand pointed away from surfaces and squeeze trigger to test

3. Begin at appropriate distance — 12 inches minimum for wood/vinyl, 6-8 inches for concrete

4. Use consistent sweeping motion, overlapping passes by 50 percent

5. Work from top to bottom when rinsing (after detergent was applied bottom to top)

6. Keep spray at a slight downward angle on siding — never spray upward under lap joints

7. Test an inconspicuous area first before committing to full surface

- Holding wand too close — gouges wood, etches concrete, cracks vinyl siding

- Using 0-degree tip on anything other than concrete — will cut into most surfaces

- Spraying upward under siding laps — forces water behind siding causing mold and rot

- Inconsistent wand distance — creates visible striping pattern on finished surface

Rinse all surfaces from top to bottom using clean water (no detergent). This ensures dirty runoff flows downward and off the surface rather than onto already-cleaned areas. Check for any missed spots, detergent residue, or areas needing a second pass. Inspect all cleaned surfaces for any damage caused by excessive pressure — splintered wood, etched concrete patterns, or cracked siding.

1. Switch to appropriate rinse tip (25° or 40° depending on surface)

2. Disconnect or bypass detergent supply

3. Rinse from top to bottom in overlapping passes

4. Check for missed spots — stains, algae, or dirt remaining

5. Re-treat and re-rinse stubborn areas as needed

6. Verify all detergent is fully rinsed (no foamy residue)

7. Inspect surfaces for pressure damage — splintering, etching, cracking

8. Rinse surrounding landscaping again to dilute any detergent that reached plants

- Rinsing bottom to top — dirty water runs over clean areas creating streaks

- Leaving detergent residue — attracts dirt faster and can damage surfaces over time

- Not inspecting for damage — pressure damage may need sanding or repair before sealing/painting

- Forgetting to rinse adjacent landscaping — detergent residue kills plants within days

After completing the wash, flush the detergent system with clean water by running the pressure washer for 2-3 minutes with the siphon tube in clean water. Release pressure from the system before disconnecting hoses. Disconnect and drain all hoses. Remove and store spray tips. Check the work area for any debris that was displaced during washing and clean up. Allow washed surfaces to dry 24-48 hours before applying any sealant, stain, or paint.

1. Run pressure washer for 2-3 minutes with siphon in clean water to flush detergent

2. Turn off pressure washer and squeeze trigger to release residual pressure

3. Disconnect high-pressure hose and garden hose

4. Drain all hoses before storing to prevent mildew and freezing damage

5. Remove spray tips and store in tip holder or container

6. Check work area for displaced dirt, debris, or mulch and clean up

7. Remove plastic coverings from electrical outlets and fixtures

8. Allow surfaces to dry 24-48 hours before applying any coatings

- Not flushing detergent from system — corrodes pump seals and internal components

- Storing hoses with water inside — mildew growth and freeze damage in cold weather

- Applying stain or sealant before surface is fully dry — coating fails to adhere properly

- Leaving spray tips dirty — mineral deposits clog the orifice for next use