Kitchen Remodel Inspection

Cabinets must be level, plumb, and securely fastened to masonry or concrete walls using appropriate anchors. All doors and drawers should operate smoothly.

1. Check all cabinets are level — maximum 2mm deviation per metre

2. Verify wall anchors are appropriate for wall type (masonry, concrete, or stud wall)

3. Open and close every door — they should swing freely without rubbing

4. Pull out every drawer — soft-close mechanisms should engage smoothly

5. Check door alignment — gaps between doors should be uniform (about 3mm)

6. Verify all hardware is firmly attached

7. Inspect filler strips between cabinets and walls

- Cabinets not level causing doors to swing open on their own

- Wrong anchors for wall type — expansion anchors in hollow walls or chemical anchors missing in masonry

- Misaligned doors with uneven gaps

- Soft-close hinges not properly adjusted

- Missing end panels or poorly fitted fillers

- Crown molding with visible gaps

Worktops must be level, properly supported, with tight joints and sealed backsplash connection. Sink cutouts must be waterproofed.

1. Check worktop is level — use a spirit level, maximum 2mm per metre deviation

2. Inspect all joints — should be tight and colour-matched with appropriate sealant

3. Verify worktop is securely fixed to base units

4. Check upstand/backsplash joint — sealed with silicone, no gaps

5. Run your hand along edges — no sharp or rough spots

6. For undermount sinks: check seal around cutout from below

7. Level test: place a glass of water and check it does not slide

8. Verify overhang support — brackets needed for overhangs greater than 250mm

- Visible joints in prominent positions

- Worktop not level — items roll

- Gaps between upstand and wall

- Poor sealing around sink cutout causing water damage

- Insufficient support for overhangs

- Chips at cutout corners

All supply and waste connections must be leak-free with accessible isolation valves. Hot water should be delivered efficiently.

1. Turn on the tap fully — check water pressure and flow rate

2. Run hot water — should reach the tap within 30 seconds

3. Check under the sink for leaks while water is running — inspect supply lines, trap, and waste connections

4. Test isolation valves under the sink — should turn easily and stop water completely

5. Check dishwasher connections — run a short cycle and inspect for leaks

6. Verify waste connections have proper trap seal (minimum 50mm water seal)

7. Check that pipe connections comply with local plumbing regulations

- Slow leaks at compression fittings

- Trap connections not properly tightened

- Missing or seized isolation valves

- Dishwasher waste not connected with proper non-return valve

- Insufficient trap seal depth

- Mixed pipe materials without proper transition fittings

Kitchen must have adequate dedicated circuits for high-power appliances. RCD (residual current device) protection required. Socket outlets must be positioned safely away from water sources.

1. Check socket outlets are positioned at least 300mm from the sink

2. Test every socket with an RCD tester — all kitchen sockets must have RCD protection (30mA)

3. Verify dedicated circuits for oven, hob, dishwasher, and washing machine

4. Check that the cooker connection is appropriately rated (typically 32A)

5. Test light switches — all should operate correctly

6. Verify socket heights — should be at appropriate working height above worktop

7. Check for adequate number of sockets — minimum 6 for a standard kitchen

- Missing RCD protection on kitchen circuits

- Socket outlets too close to water sources

- Insufficient dedicated circuits for appliances

- Cooker connection undersized

- Inadequate number of socket outlets

- Missing extractor fan electrical connection

Extractor hoods should exhaust to exterior where possible. Minimum extraction rate varies by country (typically 60 l/s for standard kitchens). Ductwork must be fire-rated where passing through fire compartments.

1. Turn on the extractor at all speeds — verify it draws air (hold tissue near)

2. Check exterior vent opens when extractor runs

3. Verify ductwork is rigid metal, not flexible plastic

4. Check for fire dampers where duct passes through fire-rated walls or floors

5. Verify adequate make-up air provision (window or trickle vent)

6. Check hood height above hob: 650-750mm for electric, 750-800mm for gas

7. Test the integrated light

- Recirculating hood instead of ducted extraction

- Flexible plastic ductwork (fire hazard with gas hobs)

- No fire damper at wall penetration

- Insufficient make-up air causing negative pressure

- Hood too high above hob

- Missing condensation trap in ductwork

Kitchen flooring must be laid on flat, clean substrate. Transitions to adjoining rooms should be smooth. Flooring should extend under appliances where possible.

1. Walk the floor — feel for soft spots, squeaks, or unevenness

2. Check flatness with a 2m straightedge — maximum 3mm deviation

3. Inspect edges along units and walls — consistent expansion gap with skirting or trim

4. Check transitions to other rooms — smooth, no trip hazards

5. Verify flooring extends under dishwasher and fridge

6. Look for damage from construction

7. For tiles: tap and listen for hollow sounds

8. Check waterproofing under flooring near dishwasher area

- Hollow tiles indicating poor adhesive coverage

- Flooring not extended under appliances

- Poor transition strips between rooms

- Visible expansion gaps

- Scratches from construction

- No waterproof membrane under tile in wet areas