Post-Storm Damage Assessment Checklist

Before inspecting storm damage, assess personal safety first. Do NOT enter a structure if you suspect structural damage (sagging roof, cracked walls, shifted foundation). Stay at least 35' away from any downed power lines and call the utility company immediately. If you smell natural gas, do not turn on lights or appliances; shut off the gas at the meter if safe to do so and call the gas company. Wear sturdy boots, gloves, and eye protection when walking through debris. Check for flooding and do not wade through standing water, which may be electrically charged from downed lines.

1. Before approaching the house, scan for downed power lines on the property, street, and in trees

2. Walk the exterior perimeter looking for obvious structural damage: shifted walls, sagging roof lines, or foundation cracks

3. Sniff for gas odor (rotten egg smell) near the meter and at the front door before entering

4. Check that the main electrical panel is not in standing water before turning on any circuits

5. Verify all household members are accounted for and any injuries are addressed before assessing property damage

- Entering a structurally compromised building that collapses or has hidden floor damage

- Touching or approaching downed power lines that may still be energized (always assume they are live)

- Turning on electrical circuits with water still present, creating electrocution risk

- Walking through floodwater that conceals open manholes, debris, or energized electrical sources

Assess the roof from the ground using binoculars. Look for missing shingles, exposed roof decking, lifted flashing, and any fallen trees or large branches on the roof. Check the attic from inside for daylight visible through the roof, active water leaks, or wet insulation. Do NOT walk on a damaged roof; the decking may be compromised. For hail damage, look for circular dents in metal vents and flashing, and bruised or cracked shingles with a pattern of random hits.

1. From the ground, scan all roof planes for missing shingles, debris impact, or exposed decking

2. Check metal roof components (vents, flashing, gutters) for dents that indicate hail size

3. From the attic, look for daylight through the roof, wet insulation, or active dripping

4. Check gutters and downspouts for damage, displacement, or blockage from debris

5. Photograph all damage from multiple angles before any cleanup or temporary repairs

- Walking on a damaged roof and falling through weakened decking

- Missing wind damage on the back or less-visible roof planes by only inspecting from one angle

- Not checking the attic, missing interior water damage that worsens before discovery

- Failing to document damage before cleanup, losing evidence needed for the insurance claim

Walk the full exterior perimeter checking for shifted or missing siding, broken windows, and impact damage from flying debris. Check the foundation for new cracks, especially horizontal cracks that indicate lateral pressure from saturated soil. Inspect the garage door for wind damage (bowed panels, bent tracks, failed weatherseal). Check all window frames for broken seals, cracked glass, or water intrusion around the frame. Note any damage to exterior-mounted equipment (AC units, meters, satellite dishes).

1. Inspect all four sides of the house for missing, shifted, or impact-damaged siding

2. Check every window for cracked or broken glass, broken seals (foggy between panes), and water staining around frames

3. Examine the foundation for new cracks, especially horizontal or stair-step cracks in masonry

4. Open and close the garage door to check for binding, bent tracks, or misalignment

5. Check exterior equipment (HVAC units, electrical meter, gas meter) for damage, displacement, or debris impact

- Wind-driven rain penetrating behind damaged siding, causing hidden mold growth in the wall cavity

- Small window cracks that go unnoticed but allow progressive water intrusion

- Foundation cracks from hydrostatic pressure during flooding that worsen over time if not repaired

- Garage door damage preventing proper closure, leaving the home vulnerable to subsequent storms

Systematically check all ceilings and walls for new water stains, bubbling paint, or sagging drywall. Inspect around every window and exterior door for moisture. Check the basement and lowest level for flooding, water marks on walls, or water seeping through the floor. Do NOT touch standing water in the basement if the electrical panel is submerged or if you are unsure about energized circuits. Water intrusion from a storm must be dried within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.

1. Walk every room and check ceilings for water stains, sagging, or active dripping

2. Check around all windows for moisture on the sill, staining on the wall below, or wet carpet

3. Inspect the basement walls and floor for water marks, dampness, or active water entry

4. Check around all exterior doors for water penetration at the threshold

5. Use a moisture meter on suspect areas to quantify moisture levels (reading above 20% indicates active moisture)

- Water behind walls not visible until mold develops weeks later (use a moisture meter to detect hidden moisture)

- Standing water in contact with the electrical panel creating electrocution risk

- Delayed water damage from saturated insulation that drips for days after the storm

- Not drying affected areas within 48 hours, resulting in mold growth that costs far more to remediate

Survey all trees on the property for hanging branches (widow-makers), split trunks, severe lean, or root heave. Do not stand under damaged trees. Hanging branches should be removed by a certified arborist; do not attempt to pull them down. Clear debris from gutters, drains, and downspouts to prevent water backup. Clear debris from walkways and driveways for safe access. Document all tree damage with photos before any cleanup work begins.

1. Inspect every tree on the property from a safe distance for hanging branches, splits, or new lean

2. Check for root heave (soil pushed up around the base) indicating the tree may be unstable

3. Verify gutters and downspouts are clear of debris and flowing freely

4. Check that storm drains, yard drains, and French drains are clear of leaves and debris

5. Photograph all damaged trees from multiple angles, including any damage they caused to structures or vehicles

- Hanging branches that fall hours or days after the storm, injuring people during cleanup

- Leaning trees with damaged root systems that fall in the next storm or high wind event

- Debris-clogged gutters causing secondary water damage from backed-up rainwater

- Removing damaged trees without documenting for insurance, losing reimbursement for removal costs

Photograph and video ALL damage before any cleanup or temporary repairs. Enable date and time stamps on photos if possible. Take wide-angle shots showing the overall damage context and close-up shots showing specific damage details. Create a written inventory of all damaged items with descriptions and estimated replacement values. Contact your insurance company within 24 hours of the storm to file a claim and obtain a claim number. Keep a log of all conversations with the insurance company including dates, names, and reference numbers.

1. Photograph every area of damage from multiple angles (wide and close-up) with date/time stamps

2. Video walk-through of all damaged areas with verbal narration describing what you see

3. Create a written list of damaged structural components and personal property with estimated values

4. Verify you have your insurance policy number, agent contact, and claims phone number readily accessible

5. File the claim within 24 hours and record the claim number, adjuster name, and expected timeline

- Cleaning up before documenting, destroying evidence that the insurance company needs to approve the claim

- Not photographing damage from enough angles, leaving gaps in documentation

- Discarding damaged items before the adjuster inspects them

- Not tracking expenses for temporary repairs, temporary housing, or emergency supplies that may be reimbursable

Make temporary repairs to prevent further damage (insurance policies typically require this). Cover roof holes or missing shingles with a tarp, weighted at the edges with sandbags or lumber (do not nail through undamaged shingles). Board up broken windows with plywood screwed to the exterior frame. Extract standing water using a wet/dry vacuum or sump pump. Set up fans and dehumidifiers to begin drying within 24 hours. Keep all receipts for materials and labor used in temporary repairs, as these are typically reimbursable under homeowner insurance.

1. Verify tarps cover all roof damage areas with at least 3' of overlap beyond the damaged zone on all sides

2. Confirm broken windows are boarded with plywood screwed to the exterior (not taped with plastic, which does not hold)

3. Check that all standing water has been extracted and drying equipment (fans, dehumidifiers) is running

4. Verify all temporary repair materials receipts are saved in a dedicated folder for the insurance claim

5. Schedule a follow-up inspection for the next day to verify temporary repairs are holding

- Tarps not properly secured, blowing off in subsequent winds and allowing additional water damage

- Nailing through undamaged shingles to secure tarps, creating new leak points

- Not extracting water quickly enough, allowing mold to establish within 48-72 hours

- Discarding receipts for temporary repairs that would have been reimbursed by insurance