Chain Link Fence Installation Checklist

Confirm property lines from survey or plat, check local zoning for setback requirements, call 811 for underground utility locates, and obtain a fence permit if required. Mark the fence line with stakes and string line. For chain link, mark terminal post locations (end posts, corner posts, and gate posts) first, then mark line post locations at a maximum of 10-foot spacing between terminal posts.

1. Review property survey to confirm exact boundaries

2. Check local zoning for setback, height, and material requirements

3. Call 811 for utility locating — wait for all marks before digging

4. Obtain fence permit if required by local building department

5. Set stakes at all terminal post locations (corners, ends, gate openings)

6. Run string line between terminal stakes

7. Mark line post locations every 10 feet maximum along the string line

8. Double-check all measurements before digging

- Building over the property line — must be removed at your expense

- Not calling 811 — striking underground utilities during post hole digging

- Line posts spaced more than 10 feet apart — fabric sags between posts

- Forgetting to account for gate width when marking post locations

Set terminal posts (end, corner, and gate posts) first. These are the structural anchors of the entire fence. Dig holes 30-36 inches deep (deeper than line posts) and 10-12 inches in diameter. Terminal posts should extend 2 inches above the top of the fence fabric height. Set each post plumb in concrete and brace until cured. Install dome caps on all terminal posts after concrete sets. Terminal posts are typically larger diameter than line posts (2-7/8 inch OD for residential).

1. Dig terminal post holes 30-36 inches deep, 10-12 inches diameter

2. Place 2-3 inches of gravel in the bottom of each hole for drainage

3. Set terminal post in hole, centered

4. Check plumb on two adjacent faces with a level

5. Brace post with diagonal supports

6. Pour concrete around post, crowning top to shed water

7. Verify post height — top should be 2 inches above planned fence fabric height

8. Install dome caps on all terminal posts after concrete cures

- Terminal posts not deep enough — entire fence section pulls and leans when fabric is tensioned

- Posts not plumb — creates a leaning fence line

- Terminal and line posts set to the same height — terminal posts must be taller to properly attach top rail

- Not installing dome caps — allows water into hollow post, causing internal rust and freeze damage

Space line posts at a maximum of 10 feet apart between terminal posts. Dig holes 24-30 inches deep, 8-10 inches in diameter. Line post tops should be set 2 inches lower than terminal post tops (this creates clearance for the top rail to pass through the loop caps). Set each post plumb in concrete. Install loop caps (also called eye tops) on all line posts — the loop will hold the top rail.

1. Verify line post spacing does not exceed 10 feet between any two posts

2. Dig holes 24-30 inches deep, 8-10 inches diameter

3. Place gravel base in each hole

4. Set posts plumb on two faces and brace

5. Measure post heights — line post tops should be 2 inches below terminal post tops

6. Pour concrete around each post, crown top

7. Install loop caps (eye tops) on all line posts — loop oriented along the fence line

8. Allow concrete to cure 24-48 hours before hanging rail and fabric

- Line posts set to the same height as terminal posts — top rail cannot pass through loop caps

- Posts spaced unevenly — creates visual inconsistency and fabric sag in wider spans

- Loop caps oriented perpendicular to fence line — top rail cannot thread through

- Posts not plumb — causes fabric to hang unevenly with visible waves

Thread the top rail through the loop caps on line posts from one terminal post to the next. Connect rail sections using rail couplings (swedged ends or separate coupling sleeves). The rail must run continuously from terminal post to terminal post without gaps. Secure the top rail to terminal posts using rail end bands and bolts — the rail should fit snugly against the inside of the terminal post. Tighten all rail end band bolts with the bolt head on the outside of the fence.

1. Feed the first rail section through the loop caps, starting from a terminal post

2. Connect subsequent rail sections using couplings or swedged ends

3. Continue threading rail through all loop caps to the next terminal post

4. Secure rail to terminal posts using rail end bands and carriage bolts

5. Tighten rail end band bolts (bolt head on outside, nut on inside)

6. Verify rail is continuous with no gaps at coupling joints

7. Check that rail sits level or follows the terrain contour consistently

8. Ensure rail does not sag between posts — add a line post if any span exceeds 10 feet

- Rail sections not coupled properly — gaps allow fabric to separate from rail

- Rail end bands not tight — rail slides out of terminal post connection under tension

- Bolt heads on inside of fence — creates snag hazard and looks unprofessional

- Rail sagging between posts — span too long or line post loop cap not supporting the rail

Unroll the chain link fabric along the outside of the fence posts (the side facing away from your property). Attach the fabric to the first terminal post by weaving a tension bar through the end row of the fabric mesh, then securing the tension bar to the post with tension bands and bolts spaced every 12-15 inches. Use a fence stretcher (come-along tool) to pull the fabric tight to the opposite terminal post. When properly tensioned, the fabric should deflect no more than 1 inch when pushed. Tie the fabric to the top rail with aluminum wire ties every 24 inches.

1. Unroll fabric along the outside of the posts (side facing neighbors/public)

2. Weave tension bar through the last link row at the starting end

3. Secure tension bar to terminal post with tension bands and carriage bolts every 12-15 inches

4. Stretch fabric toward the opposite terminal post using a come-along or fence stretcher

5. When tight, weave a tension bar through the far end and bolt to the terminal post

6. Test tension — fabric should deflect no more than 1 inch when pushed at mid-span

7. Tie fabric to the top rail with wire ties every 24 inches

8. Tie fabric to line posts with wire ties at top, middle, and bottom

- Fabric not stretched tight enough — sags and billows in wind, looks unprofessional

- Fabric stretched too tight — pulls terminal posts inward

- Wire ties spaced too far apart — fabric separates from top rail between ties

- Fabric installed on the inside of posts — posts are visible from the property side, not the neighbor side (standard practice is fabric on the outside)

Hang the gate on the gate posts using heavy-duty hinges at the top and bottom of the gate frame. Gate hinges for chain link are typically male-female pin type that slide over the post and gate frame. Install the latch assembly (fork latch is standard for chain link) at a comfortable height. Verify the gate swings freely without dragging. Install gate stops on the latch-side post to prevent the gate from swinging past the post. For double gates, install a drop rod or cane bolt on the stationary leaf.

1. Attach hinges to the gate frame per manufacturer instructions

2. Lift gate and slide hinge pins over the gate post

3. Check gate hangs level and plumb when closed

4. Verify gate swings freely in both directions without dragging on ground

5. Install fork latch at 36-42 inch height on the latch post

6. Test latch operation — should engage securely and release easily

7. Install gate stop on the latch-side post to prevent over-swing

8. For pool fencing — install self-closing hinges and self-latching mechanism per local code

- Gate drags on the ground — adjust hinge height or re-grade the ground under the swing path

- Gate does not latch — latch and gate post misaligned, adjust latch position

- Hinges binding or squeaking — apply lubricant to hinge pins

- Pool fence gate not self-closing — code violation that can result in fines and safety hazard