Toilet Replacement Checklist

Before removal, shut off water at the fixture shutoff valve (angle stop) located on the wall behind the toilet. Flush the toilet and hold the handle to drain as much water as possible from the tank. Sponge out remaining water from tank and bowl. Disconnect the supply line at the shutoff valve. Have towels, a bucket, and a small container ready for residual water.

1. Turn shutoff valve clockwise until fully closed

2. Flush toilet and hold handle down to empty tank

3. Sponge remaining water from tank and bowl into bucket

4. Disconnect supply line at the shutoff valve using adjustable pliers

5. Verify no water flows when supply line is disconnected

6. Place towels around base to catch any residual water

- Shutoff valve is seized or corroded and will not close — may need to shut off main water supply instead

- Gate-style valves (round handle) often fail to fully close — consider upgrading to quarter-turn ball valve

- Forgetting to empty the bowl — water spills when toilet is lifted

- Not having a bucket or towels ready — leads to water damage on flooring

Remove decorative bolt caps at the base, then remove the closet bolt nuts using an adjustable wrench or deep socket. Rock the toilet gently side to side to break the wax seal. Lift the toilet straight up off the closet bolts and set it aside on cardboard or towels. Immediately stuff a rag or old towel into the open drain flange to block sewer gas from entering the room.

1. Pop off decorative caps covering the closet bolts at the base

2. Remove nuts from closet bolts (use penetrating oil if corroded)

3. If bolts spin, grip with locking pliers while turning nut, or cut with hacksaw

4. Rock toilet gently to break wax seal — do not force

5. Lift toilet straight up and off the bolts (two-person lift recommended — 60-100 lbs)

6. Set toilet on cardboard or plastic to protect flooring

7. Stuff a rag into the open drain to block sewer gas

- Corroded closet bolt nuts that will not turn — use penetrating oil or cut with a mini hacksaw

- Wax seal bonded so tightly the toilet will not rock free — use a utility knife to cut around the base

- Forgetting to block the drain — sewer gas enters the home and small objects can fall in

- Cracking the toilet by twisting instead of lifting straight up

With the old toilet removed, scrape off all old wax from the closet flange using a putty knife. Inspect the flange for cracks, corrosion, or broken bolt slots. The top of the flange should sit 1/4 inch above the finished floor for a proper wax seal. If the flange is below the floor surface, use a flange extender or extra-thick wax ring. Verify the flange is securely anchored to the subfloor with all screws intact.

1. Scrape all old wax residue from the flange and surrounding area

2. Inspect flange for cracks, breaks, or corroded sections

3. Measure flange height relative to finished floor — should be 1/4 inch above

4. Verify flange is firmly anchored (should not rock or move when pressed)

5. Check that at least two bolt slots are intact and properly spaced at 180 degrees

6. If flange is damaged, install a repair ring or replacement flange before proceeding

- Flange sits below finished floor (common after new flooring installed) — use flange extender ring or extra-thick wax ring

- Broken bolt slots — install a repair flange or stainless steel repair ring over existing flange

- PVC flange cracked — replace with a new PVC or stainless steel flange

- Cast iron flange corroded through — use a cast iron repair ring bolted around the existing pipe

Place a new wax ring on the closet flange with the tapered funnel side facing up (toward the toilet). Insert new closet bolts into the flange slots and position them at 180 degrees apart, centered on the flange. Use the plastic washers provided to hold bolts upright. Verify the wax ring size matches the drain — standard 3-inch or 4-inch. Use an extra-thick wax ring if the flange is at or below floor level.

1. Select correct wax ring size (3-inch or 4-inch to match drain opening)

2. Place wax ring centered on flange with tapered side up

3. Insert new closet bolts into flange slots at 12 and 6 o'clock positions

4. Slide plastic retainer washers onto bolts to hold them upright

5. Verify bolts are straight and tall enough to extend through the toilet base

6. Do not press wax ring down — it should sit loosely until the toilet compresses it

- Using wrong size wax ring — causes leaks at the base

- Placing wax ring upside down (tapered side down) — poor seal to toilet horn

- Closet bolts not centered or tipping over — toilet will not seat properly

- Wax ring deformed from being stored in heat — keep at room temperature before use

- Using a standard wax ring when flange is below floor — need extra-thick or stacked rings

Remove the rag from the drain. Lift the toilet and align the base holes over the closet bolts. Lower the toilet straight down onto the wax ring with one firm, even press — do not lift and reposition or the wax seal will be compromised. Press down firmly while rocking slightly to fully compress the wax ring. Check level side-to-side and front-to-back. Tighten closet bolt nuts alternately, hand tight plus 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do NOT overtighten — excessive force cracks the porcelain base.

1. Remove the rag from the drain opening

2. Lift toilet over the bolts, aligning holes in the base with the closet bolts

3. Lower straight down with firm even pressure — one press to fully seat

4. Sit on the toilet to fully compress the wax ring

5. Place a level across the bowl side-to-side and front-to-back

6. Shim under base with plastic shims if floor is uneven

7. Tighten bolts alternately (left, right, left, right) — hand tight plus 1/4 turn maximum

8. Cut excess bolt length with a mini hacksaw, then install bolt caps

- Lifting and repositioning after initial press — destroys the wax seal, must use new ring

- Overtightening closet bolts — cracks the porcelain base (expensive replacement)

- Toilet rocks on uneven floor — use plastic shims and caulk to fill gaps

- Not tightening bolts alternately — toilet seats unevenly and wax seal fails on one side

Connect a new braided stainless steel supply line between the shutoff valve and the toilet fill valve. Hand tighten the connections, then use an adjustable wrench for an additional 1/4 turn. Do not overtighten or use thread tape on compression fittings. Turn on the shutoff valve slowly and check for leaks at both the shutoff valve connection and the fill valve connection under the tank.

1. Install new braided stainless steel supply line (replace old line — do not reuse)

2. Connect supply line to shutoff valve — hand tight plus 1/4 turn with wrench

3. Connect supply line to fill valve under tank — hand tight plus 1/4 turn

4. Slowly open the shutoff valve (quarter-turn counterclockwise)

5. Let tank fill completely

6. Inspect shutoff valve connection for drips

7. Inspect fill valve connection under tank for drips

8. Check around the base of the tank-to-bowl bolts for moisture

- Reusing the old supply line — old lines can fail and cause major water damage

- Cross-threading the supply line connections — causes persistent slow leaks

- Overtightening plastic fill valve fitting — cracks the fitting

- Not checking for leaks immediately — slow drip goes unnoticed and causes floor damage

Flush the toilet 3-4 times consecutively and inspect the base for any seepage or moisture, which would indicate a failed wax seal. Verify the supply connection remains leak-free under repeated flush pressure. Check that the tank fills to the manufacturer's water line mark and the flapper seals completely (no running water sound after fill). Apply a continuous bead of silicone caulk around the base of the toilet where it meets the floor — this is code-required in many jurisdictions per IPC Section 405.5.

1. Flush 3-4 times in succession, watching the base for any water seepage

2. Place paper towels or newspaper around the base to detect even slight moisture

3. Check supply line connections again for drips after repeated flushing

4. Verify tank fills to the water line marked inside the tank

5. Listen for running water after tank fills — indicates flapper issue

6. Apply silicone caulk around the entire base (leave a small gap at the back for leak detection, or caulk completely per local code)

7. Smooth caulk with a wet finger or caulk tool

8. Let caulk cure 24 hours before heavy use

- Water seeping at base after flushing — wax seal failed, must remove toilet and redo with new wax ring

- Tank runs continuously — adjust fill valve height or replace flapper

- Weak or incomplete flush — check that tank water level reaches manufacturer's fill line

- Skipping caulk — fails code inspection in many jurisdictions and allows bacteria growth at base