Wood Fence Construction Checklist

Obtain a copy of the property survey or plat to confirm exact property lines — never assume based on existing landmarks. Check local zoning ordinances for setback requirements (typically 2-6 inches from property line, varies by jurisdiction). Contact 811 (national utility locate service) at least 48 hours before digging to have underground utilities marked. Obtain a fence permit if required by your municipality. Mark all post locations with stakes and run a string line between corner stakes to ensure straight alignment.

1. Review property survey or plat to confirm property boundaries

2. Check local zoning for setback requirements from property lines

3. Verify maximum fence height allowed (typically 6 feet for backyard, 4 feet for front yard)

4. Call 811 to request underground utility locating — wait for all utilities to be marked

5. Apply for fence permit if required by local building department

6. Notify neighbors about the fence (required in some jurisdictions — "good neighbor" laws)

7. Set corner stakes on your property side of the boundary line at the required setback

8. Run string line between corner stakes — all post locations must align with this line

- Building on or over the property line — neighbor can require removal at your expense

- Not calling 811 — hitting a gas, water, or electrical line while digging post holes

- Exceeding height limits without a variance — code enforcement can require removal

- Not pulling a permit — may need to remove fence and rebuild, causes issues at property sale

Dig post holes to a depth of 1/3 the total post length as a minimum — for a standard 6-foot fence with 8-foot posts, holes should be at least 24 inches deep. In cold climates, holes must extend below the local frost line to prevent frost heave. Hole diameter should be approximately 3 times the post width (typically 10-12 inches for a 4x4 post). Use a manual post-hole digger, two-person auger, or power auger. Space holes according to fence panel width, typically 6 to 8 feet on center.

1. Mark post hole centers along the string line (6-8 feet apart, matching panel width)

2. Verify all 811 utility marks are clear of your hole locations

3. Dig each hole to minimum 24 inches for a 6-foot fence (deeper in cold climates — below frost line)

4. Make holes 3 times post width diameter (10-12 inches for 4x4 posts)

5. Keep hole sides relatively straight, not bell-shaped

6. Check hole depth with a tape measure at each location

7. Remove loose dirt from the bottom of each hole

8. Place 2-3 inches of gravel at the bottom of each hole for drainage

- Holes too shallow — posts lean or heave from frost in cold climates

- Holes too narrow — insufficient concrete around post for proper support

- Hitting rock — may need a rock bar, jackhammer, or adjusted post location

- Not placing gravel at the bottom — water collects at post base and accelerates rot

Set corner and end posts first, then gate posts, then fill in line posts. Place each post in its hole on the gravel base. Plumb the post using a level on two adjacent faces simultaneously. Brace each post temporarily with diagonal braces (2x4 stakes) screwed to the post and staked to the ground. For structural integrity, use concrete for corner posts, end posts, and gate posts. Gravel backfill is acceptable for line posts where local conditions allow. All post tops should be at a consistent height — use string line between corner posts to verify.

1. Set corner and end posts first

2. Place post on gravel base in the hole

3. Check plumb with a level on two adjacent faces (both must read plumb)

4. Attach temporary diagonal braces to hold post plumb while concrete sets

5. Run a string line between corner post tops to establish height line

6. Set remaining posts to the string line height, checking plumb on each

7. Verify all posts are aligned with the original layout string line

8. Double-check plumb on every post before pouring concrete

- Not bracing posts before concrete — posts lean while concrete is wet

- Checking plumb on only one face — post can be plumb front-to-back but leaning left-to-right

- Post heights not consistent — creates wavy fence line that looks unprofessional

- Setting line posts before corner posts — makes alignment correction nearly impossible

Mix concrete per bag instructions (or use fast-setting concrete poured dry into the hole, then add water). Fill around the post to 1-2 inches below grade level, leaving room for a dirt cap on top to shed water away from the post. Crown (mound) the top of the concrete so water drains away from the post rather than pooling around it. Allow 24-48 hours for concrete to cure before attaching rails or applying lateral force. For gravel-only backfill on line posts, tamp in 4-inch lifts.

1. Re-verify post plumb before pouring concrete

2. Mix concrete per instructions or pour fast-setting mix dry into the hole

3. If using dry fast-setting mix, add water per bag directions after pouring

4. Fill to 1-2 inches below grade level

5. Crown the concrete top to slope away from the post on all sides

6. Re-check plumb immediately after pouring (before concrete sets)

7. Leave braces in place for minimum 24-48 hours during cure

8. Cap with dirt after concrete sets to shed surface water

- Concrete poured flush with or above grade — water pools at post base and accelerates rot

- Not crowning the concrete — flat top allows water to wick down along the post

- Disturbing posts before concrete cures — weakens the post-to-concrete bond

- Too much water in mix — weakens concrete strength significantly

Mark rail positions on each post — top rail typically 6-8 inches from the top of the fence, bottom rail 6-8 inches from the ground. For fences over 5 feet, add a middle rail for strength. Attach rails using galvanized rail brackets/hangers, or by toe-screwing directly into the post face. Level each rail between posts. Use pressure-treated lumber (minimum 2x4 for rails). Rails must be centered on the post face for consistent picket alignment.

1. Mark top rail position on each post (6-8 inches from post top)

2. Mark bottom rail position (6-8 inches from ground level)

3. Mark middle rail position if fence is over 5 feet tall

4. Install rail brackets/hangers at marks, or prepare for toe-screw attachment

5. Cut rails to span between posts (butt joint at center of post)

6. Set rails in brackets or toe-screw into post faces with 3-inch exterior screws

7. Level each rail with a 4-foot level

8. Stagger rail joints so they do not all land on the same post

- Rails not level — causes pickets to be crooked even when installed plumb

- Bottom rail too close to ground — wicks moisture and rots quickly

- Rails butted end-to-end between posts instead of on the post — weak joint that sags

- Using non-pressure-treated lumber for rails — premature rot and failure

Start attaching pickets or boards from a corner post or a point where the fence meets the house. Use a spacer block cut to the desired gap width for consistent spacing between pickets (if building a picket-style fence). For privacy fence (board-on-board), overlap boards by 1 inch minimum. Check plumb every 4-5 boards and adjust spacing slightly if needed to avoid ending a section with a very narrow piece. Pre-drill to prevent splitting, especially near board ends. Fasten with galvanized or stainless steel screws — two screws per rail connection.

1. Start at a corner post or house connection point

2. Set first picket plumb using a level, flush with post edge

3. Fasten with two galvanized or stainless steel screws at each rail (top, middle, bottom)

4. Use spacer block for consistent gaps between pickets

5. Pre-drill screw holes within 1 inch of board edges to prevent splitting

6. Check plumb every 4-5 boards and adjust spacing if drifting

7. Maintain consistent height across the top — use string line as guide

8. Cut last board to fit if necessary rather than leaving a large gap

- Not pre-drilling near edges — boards split, compromising structural integrity and appearance

- Using nails instead of screws — nails back out over time as wood expands and contracts

- Inconsistent spacing — visible pattern variation that looks unprofessional

- Boards not plumb — error compounds across the fence run, becoming obvious at far end

Install gate hardware — heavy-duty hinges (minimum two, three for heavy gates) at the top and bottom of the gate frame. Install the latch at a comfortable height (36-42 inches). Check gate swing clearance and ensure the gate does not sag or drag. Install decorative post caps on all posts to prevent water from soaking into end grain. Apply wood preservative, stain, or sealant to all cut ends and any untreated exposed wood to prevent premature rot and weathering.

1. Install gate hinges — two minimum (three for gates wider than 4 feet or heavy gates)

2. Mount hinges with structural lag screws into the post, not just wood screws

3. Install latch hardware at 36-42 inch height

4. Check gate swings freely without dragging on ground

5. Verify gate closes and latches securely

6. Install post caps on all posts (press-fit, glue, or screw depending on type)

7. Apply wood preservative or stain to all cut ends of boards and posts

8. Apply exterior wood stain or sealant to the entire fence (or allow wood to weather naturally)

- Gate sags after a few months — needs diagonal cross-brace from bottom hinge side to top latch side

- Hinges mounted with short screws — pull out under gate weight, use 3-inch lag screws minimum

- Skipping post caps — water soaks into exposed end grain and rots posts from the top down

- Not treating cut ends — factory pressure treatment does not penetrate cut surfaces, rot starts there